Gay Spain: Andalucia and the Costa del Sol

Executive Director of PhillyGayCalendar

Admittedly there are parts of the world that are more reputedly “Gay-Friendly” than Spain and certainly Madrid and Barcelona have the Spanish market cornered on gay bars, clubs and lifestyle but very few areas are as special as the south of Spain. To me, it definitely is a land I would “Gay-Recommend”, to coin a new phrase. The Costa del Sol is magical and very capable of creating memories no Gay woman or man should ever think of missing in this life. I always think that music, the visual arts, film and theatre are all classically defined, artistic endeavors. I think that a very well planned travel experience in another country at a resort or somewhere entirely different than where we “live” can supply a little something we never knew we needed. Even camping can be wildly romantic and sense satisfying in the same way that a beautiful painting or symphony is.

Our community is currently enjoying a very high, positive profile in Spain thanks to the recent introduction of the controversial homosexual marriage law. Obviously the Catholic Church has put up fierce opposition to this but the large majority of the Spanish people (especially in urban areas) support equal rights for all people and Spain is building more and more momentum as a popular Gay destination. While everyone knows of the legendary Gay Madrid and Barcelona which are wonderful and rainbow flag flying choices, I have chosen Marbella (Mar-Bay-a) and the magnificent Costa del Sol (coast of the sun) for today’s blog. From Marbella one can orchestrate a trip unlike any other you have experienced.

I make no excuses about being a very versatile kind of guy and I love variety. The south of Spain can provide that. Marbella is my home-base of choice and there are several resorts and hotels along the beach-front that could satisfy the likes of the world’s rich and famous while still maintaining all the charm and hospitality that makes people feel very comfortable even though Sean Connery and Antonio Bandaras just walked by. The place is so charming, in fact that I once rented out a (charming) private estate and home once owned by a Spanish gangster. The government took over this “piece of Spanish heaven” after his conviction and turned it into a very private, very exclusive and mucho gorgeous golf club. Once used by Michael Jackson who was giving a birthday bash for his pal, Elizabeth Taylor. My party was pretty spectacular as well. At the time of my soiree, Liz and Mike were still alive so it meant more. I would show you pictures but security would not allow it. Probably bull-shit but a nice touch!

The same road that takes you to this club will eventually take you to an exquisite, must-see mountain village named Ronda. One of the most stunningly beautiful and unique towns you will ever see! Perched in cliffs and actually a tad scary from some angles, Ronda is the site of the first bullfighting ring in Spain. Legendary actor, director, producer Orson Welles was so drawn to Ronda his ashes were buried in the wall of his bullfighter friend in Ronda. Ernest Hemingway summered there many times and referred to Ronda in “For Whom the Bell Tolls”. Ronda is a town that inspired some to the greatest minds of the last century. Personally, I had the very best gazpacho of my life at a small Ronda restaurant and came to find out that my favorite cold tomato soup was perfected there. I had always thought that Paella was introduced to the world from Andalucía since they grow a lot of rice and saffron. It was introduced in Seville but is a staple all over the Costa del Sol. Created in many different ways, all delicious.

There are several absolutely stunning resorts to relax at all over the coast and some have prices you would not believe. I prefer to stay in the sleepy little sea-side Marbella and there are some fine beach front properties to stay in at a reasonable rate. Many times your hotel tariff in Europe includes a full or continental breakfast which should be inquired about and factored in when making your plans. Most allow you to order breakfast ahead for the next morning for no additional charge. That’s my speed!

In Marbella the beach is actually outlined by a “promenade” with the magnificent Mediterranean on one side, beautifully landscaped and shops, clubs, cafes, bars and restaurants on the other. From time to time you will encounter a fresh-fish restaurant on the beach side but for the most part, it is simply a very upscale version of the Jersey Shore. Snooki would just love it! The atmosphere and activity is one of fun, relaxation and refinement. Upscale yet not at all snobbish or too highly toned. Just the way I like it. There is a fantastic restaurant “Santiago’s” along the main drag that I like a lot. The grilled anchovies are unreal and this is done with fresh Mediterranean anchovies before they are jarred in oil and salt. Lightly breaded and grilled, one eats the entire fish, tasty, crunchy, and delicious. Accompanied by a nice crisp/chilled Spanish white, OMG! Taste bud erection!

One of the very special things one can do from this area is probably one of the most unique day trips available on the planet Earth. A trip to Tangiers, Morocco in North Africa is possible, just across the Strait of Gibraltar from Spain. The large hydrofoil leaves from the dock at “The Rock” and technically you are going from Spain, to Great Britain to Africa in about an hour or so. If you think it sounds amazing, it is. Morocco is by far one of the most foreign places I have ever been. The Kasbah, snake charmers, unusual “fragrances”, a ride on a camel? Crazy! I usually like to take people across the strait in the morning and then stop for a while on Gibraltar on the way back to Marbella. Gibraltar (really a fucking, huge rock) is totally British, (Union Jacks everywhere) and surrounded by Spain. Oddly enough this tiny piece of GB is inhabited by The Barberry Apes! Small tailless the “monkeys”, totally cute are generally friendly. The apes like to play with tourists and will run off with anything they can get their hands on. All part of an unforgettable experience. This is something I have had the pleasure/honor of giving people for quite a while. I consider myself an artist with the planet as media.

Many Gay men and women might find Marbella lacking in Gay Presence. Worth a day trip but the idea of a vacation without a gayborhood, bars and clubs just has no appeal. Torremolinos is just down the road. Once the “Gay playground of the Brits”, the gay scene is decidedly Spanish now and a lot less expensive than Marbella. Not as up-scale either but all of life is a trade off is it not?.

On the weekends a young Gay crowd from all over the Costa del Sol and some as far away as Barcelona and Madrid descend on Torremolinos. Many Gay events are famous all over Europe. Apparently their “Mad Bear Beach Party Weekend” in August brings in Bears and Otters from all over the world. Grrrr!

If you have ever wanted to truly shop, dine or park your yacht with the world’s elite, Puerto Banus is on the other side of Marbella and really something to see. Everyone should explore are have an evening here at least once. No doubt one of the world’s most exclusive and expensive marinas, Puerto Banus is studded with international stars and all the glamour, style and great shopping to go with that. After one ties up his multi-million dollar floating palace one seldom seeks out fast-food and the selection of restaurants and bars reflects that. Designed by the same women and men who created (designed and constructed) Beverly Hills (yeah the one near La.) Puerto Banus is something to see, if only for Antonio Banderas Square! Local boy makes good! (Actually he is from Malaga, the nearest airport you can fly into and has a villa above the city with Melanie Griffith and their children. Other than the premiere Picasso Museum in the world (Pablo was born in Malaga) there is little to do/see in Malaga.

THE BOTTOM LINE: While it is true “God shed his grace on America”. Andalusia was blessed with quite a bit of the spill-over. No place else is quite like the Costa del Sol. Dream-like yet with sharp sun drenched edges. The food, wine, attractions; the natural and artificial beauty make her what she really is, an elegant international resort, so rich and well endowed that she needn’t “shout her name” Marbella is a quiet, sophisticated place for very special men and women. Not to be prejudiced or judgmental, but as Gay men and women, I think only we would really appreciate all of the details and passion of the world. Too bad isn’t it?

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