Gay Madeira, ‘The Floating Garden’ – Totally a Gay Must!

Executive Director of PhillyGayCalendar

Atlantis: According to Plato "Was a great continent larger than Libya and Asia together". It was populated by a very wealthy and advanced civilization. It is said that the peaks of sunken Atlantean mountains today form the Canary Islands, the Azores, Madeira and Cape Verde. At the bottom of the sea, glorious palaces and temples are still waiting to be discovered.

I have been blessed to be sent (I believe that everything happens for a reason … Nothing is by "chance") to Madeira Island many times. She is hard to describe in mere words like with all truly enchanted places. It makes sense to me that out of the awesome possibility that was "The lost continent of Atlantis" would someday evolve a magical land like Madeira Island. Myself, having been blessed by the "Gay-Gene", I believe that Madeira is one of those fantasy islands that should be on every Gay man and woman-s "Bucket list". Verdant, unbelievably floral and very unique, with dramatic yet graceful landscapes everywhere, the effect is utterly other-worldly. You almost expect Tattoo to appear at any moment in his crisp white suit! (De plane! De plane!)

Speaking of planes! My first flight into Madeira (from Lisbon) some years ago was rather memorable for a number of reasons. From the air Madeira resembles a Disney creation and the initial landing is spectacular! The run-way is somewhat short and there are spiny, mysterious looking spires that create a fairy-land feel along with flowers everywhere and awesome rock formations. The pilot warned of a "left-bank-short-landing" and suddenly BAM! There we were. Everything is unexpected and spectacular on the Island of Madeira.

Gay female and male residents enjoy a free and comfortable lifestyle on the island if not somewhat muted and not really apparent. I personally think that this is fine and actually the way I would like it to be. The truth is that quite a sizeable part of the population on Madeira is Gay and quite acceptable to everyone. In 2010, Portugal-s parliament (Madeira is Portuguese) passed a law legalizing Gay marriage. The definition of "marriage" was with the removal of all references to two people of different sexes. Should I ever marry (again-doubtful) I would consider Madeira.

Madeira-s most important form of revenue is tourism. Most guests hale from the UK, around the EU and South America. Many of the visitors are fairly "mature" as well. Madeira is a very popular cruise ship stop for the "silver-hair ships" yet about half of the residents of Madeira are under the age of 25. The Gay Community is finally and fully coming into its own. I have to believe that what is right eventually creeps in quietly, surely and with steely determination. It is how the universe works. To be Gay and on Madeira Island is being double blessed in my opinion. Only Gays would really "get-it". I do think that we have an extra-sensory appreciation of beauty.

Madeira Island is located about 400 miles off the west coast of Africa and just north of the glorious Canary Islands. It was discovered during the hey-day of the Portuguese "Age of Discovery" starring "Henry the Navigator" in 1419. The island is warm, (subtropical) inviting and has a very Mediterranean temperament. Much closer to Africa than Europe yet considered part of Portugal. The locals seem only party on the weekends which is probably because they are all entertaining the tourists in one way or another. Bars really don-t get busy until midnight, dinner is generally at around ten and dance clubs open at 2 or 3 am. While there are a few designated Gay Bars around and most are a mix of all kinds of men and women. It seems that our brothers and sisters, Gay and straight just fit together comfortably which I think is what we all want. At least I do.

Madeira is famous for its fortified wine by the same name and it is famous throughout the world. On the island and there is much interest in the thick, sometimes extremely sweet liquid with an most unpleasant aftertaste. This is just my opinion as the wine has been popular for centuries. Madeira was an all-time favorite of our famous "Philly-Guys", Washington, Jefferson, Adams and Franklin who like many polished Americans had it shipped in regularly. Madeira is usually drunk as an aperitif or digestif and seldom with the meal. Once, when I was entertaining some people on the island, a couple of the wineries had an interesting "racket" going where you were invited to purchase already aging bottles of Madeira Wine. The bottles would mature, i.e. become ready for drinking in a particular year. People were buying bottles well into the future with years chosen to coincide with a relative-s 21st birthday, 50th Anniversary or the like.. I watched thousands of dollars go towards the wine and found it a magnificent piece of merchandising. I didn-t buy any.

There is a great deal of wicker grown on the island. (Fields of it) I frankly never thought that wicker was a crop, but there you have it. There is a number of Madeira wicker products sold all over the world as is very well detailed, meticulous handmade Madeira lace. Should you feel like spending 65K on a table-cloth you are in the right place! Baskets and wicker-ware are a bargain however, if you are into that sort of thing.

One strange, funny and bizarre wicker usage is in the design of large two people wicker toboggans to ride. (seriously!) Madeira Island is sitting on a volcano and since she is volcanic herself, many of her hills and geography are very extreme, rocky and steep. Much farming is done in a terraced fashion and some streets and roads are San Francisco steep with century-s worn stones. It is possible to sit with your partner in your wicker toboggan while two very strong men pull, steer and guide you through a maze of streets in Funchal (Foon-chal) the capital of Madeira. Zipping down steep, stone, slopes guided by a man with a rope on each side is really something else! These contraptions were originally used in the early 19th Century to transport goods down the daunting slopes. If it sounds crazy and touristy, it is! But, is also quite original and something you will never forget. I am all about that! I don-t think it is done anywhere else in Earth.

There are several very high quality hotels as well as many moderate inns with great charm. The standard-bearer of luxury accommodation is called Reid-s Palace and is the epitome of rarefied ambience perfectly complimented by contemporary comforts so appealing to the likes of Winston Churchill some years ago and contemporary European celebrities of today. Perched high above all on a cliff overlooking Funchal and the sea, Reid-s Palace is really like no other hotel in the world. My favorite of the restaurants Les Faunes (still requiring jacket/tie) features a of the large collection of Picasso lithographs on its elegant walls. The grub ain-t half bad either and on Madeira the fish and seafood is superb! One delicious and unique item available nowhere else is the Espada, a Black Scabbard and by far the most popular menu item in Madeira. Truly ugly, shiny-black eel-like creatures with razor sharp teeth, they live at the bottom of the sea all around Madeira. Since it is very dark down there, Espada (Ish-pa-da) are pretty much blind. They say that Espada live so deep in the ocean that the trip up from the floor tends to kill the fish by "The Bends" or decompression disease. They are the most succulent fish you will ever consume and prepared in a variety of manner. With a bottle of my favorite Portuguese Vinho Verde (green wine) both in color and it-s fresh, youthful qualities.

Beaches on Madeira are not sandy or plentiful. There are many different places to sun and swim, however and many are natural pools made from volcanic rock formations and are just magnificent. Puerto Santo the small neighboring island, a short ferry ride or a five minute trip by plane is described as "8 miles of sandy beach with just a little bit of island attached". Some parts are nude and some parts very, very secluded. If you need the sand between your toes feeling, this is the place to go.

THE BOTTOM LINE: If you draw an arrow from Lisbon south, the line will pass Madeira and end at Rio de Janiero. Both were discovered by the Portuguese when they were in power and all still have elements of this very special country. I love Madeira. No other island looks like her or evokes the same kind of feeling and flavor. Portuguese, Brazilian, Moroccan, what an amazing combination of cultures! Naturally we all tend to champion our own choices and although Madeira does not have the "sizzle" of Paris, Rome or The Delaware Water Gap, I think of her as a "European Bali Hai". Quiet, awesomely beautiful, friendly, fairly priced an according to the Guinness Book of World Records has the largest fireworks display in the world on New Year-s Eve. That I must see someday! Listen, I think she is calling you.

Read Related Posts...