The Gay French Riviera: It Doesn’t Get Much Better Than This!

Executive Director of PhillyGayCalendar

   When I was an impressionable young man I had several ideals, Thomas Jefferson and Mickey Mantle among them. In the “movie star” department there have never been another two like Grace Kelly and Cary Grant. Scenes from Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief impressed me as the ultimate in glamour and romance. Two impossibly beautiful people backed by scenery just as perfect. When I was older, The French Riviera/Monaco was the home of Philly’s Princess Grace but I was confused. Where/what was Monaco and Monte Carlo? What was The French Riviera/The south of France? Turned out that just like Gracie’s East Falls/Philadelphia confusion, Monte Carlo is just a section of Monaco, the entertainment portion of the tiny country with the Casino, Opera House, Hotel de Paris and the Café de la Paix as highlights. Gracie’s son Albert is now “in charge” and in truth is one of the few true dictators left in the world just as his mother and father were before him. But, I digress.

A quick lesson on the Cote d’Azur:

The French Riviera actually begins with Monaco (at the Italian Border) and looking at Monaco/Monte Carlo head on, to the right is Italy and what is known as the Italian Riviera and to the left will be Nice, Cannes and ending with St. Tropez and in that order. You may recall that St. Tropez is the setting for the original La Cage aux Folles (The Birds of a Feather) Talk about an embarrassment of riches! Oh la-la! Each of these fabled towns has a personality all its own. Each a treasure.

I have entertained guests in this part of the world using Nice, Cannes, Monte Carlo and Paris as home base. Each worked beautifully. I in 2008, I was in the middle of planning a magnificent program with three nights in Paris followed by four at the glorious Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo for the Philadelphia Inquirer when they went “belly-up” and so did the program.  Kind of rude don’t you think?

The French Riviera ranks among Europe’s most enduring, and alluring Gay playgrounds.  Cannes (can) and Nice (niece) are sunny, sophisticated beach resort towns who like Monte Carlo were founded and developed on the pure pursuit of pleasure. What once was only for the very rich and famous, this “sunny place for shady people” is open to everyone and almost every pocketbook. Honestly, some of the pricing available is quite remarkable. I know that Monaco offers some “knock your socks off” pricing at any time of the year for groups and naturally the rest of the Riviera follows suit.

Nice is the largest city in the region with a busy International Airport and direct flights from the US and from all over Europe. Gay Pride each July is celebrated in Nice and to me the entire south of France area is simply a must for the LGBT community since anywhere special, amazingly picturesque, unique and stunning generally is. This “Gay Guy” loves the best on occasion and La Cote is pretty much perfection to me. I simply like the opulent feeling of being in one of the most celebrated and exquisite spots on the planet. I suppose that this is just me but sometimes it is important to treat yourself and a few days here is an unforgettable treat. My first trip to Nice was in early spring, it was a very warm day in late March. As I walked along the famous Promenade des Anglais, (along the beach) I thought the day could not be more glorious. What appeared to be a dark speck in the sea turned out to be a swimmer of amazing proportion and as he swam into shallower water and finally departing the wet I was delighted that he chose not to wear anything but a grin and proof that men on the Cote d’Azur are not prone to “shrinkage.”  Funny how some visuals just never go away! Mediterranean men can be quite exceptional in all sorts of ways. The Mediterranean sun can sometimes frame a man from this part of the world’s head, casting flame-like sparks from ebony curls. (sigh) But, I digress!

Cannes, the Rivera’s other Gay hub is home to the ultra famous May film festival which is to be avoided as the town is not large and unless you are of “film-stock” you don’t stand a chance at any price. March or November are fantastic months to visit.

There is so much to say about The Gay French Rivera that I will limit myself to highlights and invite anyone to contact me with any questions they might have.

1.    The French Rivera is very Gay Friendly. One of a kind, artistic, the best of the best in a relaxed setting. Somewhat heavy on the Roman Catholic attitude (in some areas) but, now that the Pope has declared, “Who am I to judge” I expect the world to be more realistic about exceptional people like us (i.e. LGBT)

2.    Beaches! Nude and other wise. Those swimming and sunbathing here will find sandy, usually pebbly, different kind of beach experiences. Europeans are much more relaxed than Americans with being naked and using the toilet. Yet again, older cultures are just different than the American style. It’s fun to experience and “expose yourself to”.

3.    Food and Restaurants! OMG! Want to spend a fortune? Dine where the “elite meet to eat”! Not to mention names but some of the finest restaurants on the universe are located here and the best chefs reside. Simply the best of everything from food to wine and service. I swear some of them would follow you to the “loo” to help if you let them. Generally Styrofoam, paper products and the like are simply not done. Even the simplest pizza place would not use plastic utensils and it is much more “Green” better for the environment. As a total American I hate to say that we are quite behind in the Green Movement.

4.    Plenty of “cheaper eats” are available everywhere and the casual French/Italian mix of cafes and bistros is legendary.  

5.    Like all of us, the food of the Cote d’Azur is a product of its environment. Being a total “foodie” I could write several Blogs about just that but I can simplify it all by saying that the sun and sea, the French and Italian influence, the finest olives, herbs, rich fruits, vegetables all are part of the lovely and succulent Provencale style. Some dishes originated here like Bouillabaisse, Salade Nicoise and for the vegetarians among us, Ratatouille.

6.    Once when I had an incentive group of 250 in Nice for a five night program, we stayed at a very well situated hotel (most important) in the middle of town. The challenge was finding venues large enough for this size of crowd. All around the coast are magical, romantic mountain towns with tiny inns, hotels, restaurants, cafes etc. I wanted to plan an Group Dining Experience a la Provencale and planned 5 different dinners in a selection of restaurantsin fantastic tiny-towns like Menton, Villefranche, St. Paul du Vence (my favorite) and Antibe. One simply had to choose by main course: Fish, lamb or beef took them to divine choices of restaurants suitable for maybe 30 people. When it comes to fine dining I don’t believe bigger is better.

7.    Cannes, is a short train ride from Nice and is really a must see. While not yet formally/famously Gay, Cannes certainly is progressive, open and Gay-Friendly. A snazzy town with abundant chic cafes, ritzy restaurants, luxe hotels with a small but lively Gay-Nightlife scene. Nice has more but then again, Nice is much larger than Cannes. A winning choice either way.

8.    Grasse. The perfume capital of the world since the 17th Century. The tours of Fragonard are a bore to me but the little town is very real, French and charming. The “Stink-Water” business still thrives and the real thing (Parfum) is tres expensive but the aroma business does employ several thousand people and attracts millions of tourists.

9.    St. Tropez is yet another “Jet-Set” glamour spot but while very Gay-Friendly, not really developed as in Nice but surely is worth visiting for its relaxed yet sophisticated feeling. There is really no Gayborhood but there are some bars and restaurants labeled as “Gay” yet like the rest of the Riviera everyone seems to interconnect without any problems.    

10.   San Remo, just across the Italian Border is worth checking out as well. The Flea Market is world famous and I have often marveled at how a few miles can actually sometimes define an entire culture. Italy is pretty wonderful.

THE BOTTOM LINE: The “Tres Gay” Cote d’Azur should be seen and experienced at least once by everyone, especially those of us with our extraordinary sense of what is truly enchanting. Pricing is all over the place and should not be judged as too expensive. The French Riviera is very affordable. The entire region is friendly, sophisticated, safe for (nice/well behaved) American’s and not so foreign as to be “taxing”. Could it possibly be the perfect destination for the GLBT Community?  Maybe, but that’s just me.

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