Walking through Philadelphia’s farmers’ markets, I’m always looking for the ugly and the unusual. I know that uniformly plump produce represents the best of natural (and unnatural) selection, but, in my opinion, perfection is overrated. The misshapen are far more interesting to look at, and I’m convinced that they also taste better. Most of us eat the same ten varieties of fruits and vegetables, and so I also love any opportunity to expand my palette.

At Rittenhouse’s Saturday market, I recently spied something I’d never seen before: thumb-sized, neon green peppers tucked behind the normal assortment of late-summer produce. My sister identified them as shishito peppers and insisted that I buy a quart for dinner that evening. In addition to their shape, I was intrigued by their strong scent: sweet and smoky, like freshly ground black pepper (and masculine, too, which I know is a strange adjective for a vegetable). Back home, we sautéed them in a generous amount of olive oil, and ate them as appetizers, adding only a dash of sea salt and squeeze of lemon.

The best dishes are often the most simple, containing only a few impeccably fresh ingredients, and this is the perfect time of year to enjoy quality produce at the height of their flavor and abundance. These peppers, with their bright flavor and subtle heat, are well-suited for this seasonal transition between summer and fall. (If you are spice-averse, fear not! Shishitos are mostly mild peppers, but if you do bite into one packed with heat, it’s considered to be good luck).

Sautéed Shishito Peppers

15 minutes. Serves 2

Ingredients

1 quart Shishito Peppers (about 20), found at farmers’ markets or, likely Whole Foods and Reading Terminal Market

2 tablespoons high quality extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 teaspoon sea or kosher salt

Juice from 1 half lemon

Instructions

Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking.

Add shishito peppers, whole, and sauté for 8-10 minutes, stirring constantly, until their skins have softened and blistered.

Transfer to a serving bowl, sprinkle with salt and lemon juice and serve immediately. Accompany with a small bowl to discard the stems.

Spooning is a new biweekly column at PhillyGayCalendar featuring recipes for the home cook and food enthusiast.

Recipe and illustration by Michael Liang